No Hype. Just Data.

Skincare Science,
Stripped Bare.

We analyze the clinical efficacy of consumer skincare devices, decipher ingredient formulations, and build mathematical models for barrier repair.

FIG 1. Dermal Penetration Model

The Anatomy of a
Functional Routine

Stop layering based on marketing claims. We map the chemical compatibility, optimal pH ranges, and molecular weights of active ingredients to prevent degradation and maximize dermal penetration.

  • 01.Molecular Weight Analysis (< 500 Daltons rule)
  • 02.pH Dependency & pKa Values
  • 03.Vehicle Optimization (Emulsions vs Solutions)
Read the Formulation Guide
DATA_TABLE_01pH COMPATIBILITY MATRIX
ActiveTarget pHConflict
L-Ascorbic Acid2.5 - 3.5Niacinamide
AHA (Glycolic)3.0 - 4.0Retinoids
Retinol5.5 - 6.0Low pH Acids
Niacinamide5.0 - 7.0LAA

Hardware Audits

ENERGY BASED DEVICES

LED Therapy: Power Density Reality Check

Most consumer masks fail to deliver the necessary mW/cm² for ATP synthesis. We measure actual output versus marketing claims.

Read Audit
MICROCURRENT

The ATP Plateau: Why Your NuFace Stopped Working

Analyzing muscle accommodation and the cellular limitations of sustained low-level electrical stimulation.

Read Audit
ULTRASOUND / RF

Thermal Necrosis Thresholds in At-Home RF

Examining the risk-to-reward ratio of uncalibrated volumetric heating for neocollagenesis.

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The 500 Dalton Rule

Molecules larger than 500 Daltons cannot penetrate the stratum corneum without mechanical or chemical disruption. This renders 90% of topical collagen and high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid serums biologically inert on the surface.

We track the molecular weights of all popular active ingredients to separate systemic efficacy from localized hydration.

Access Molecular Database
500 DaThe absolute limit of passive dermal penetration.

Clinical Realities vs. Marketing Claims

Marketing ClaimClinical RealityEvidence Base
"Medical Grade" SkincareAn unregulated marketing term with no FDA legal definition.FDA Title 21
Topical Collagen Builds CollagenMolecule size (300,000 Da) completely prevents penetration. Acts only as humectant.Bos & Meinardi (2000)
Pores Can Open and ClosePores lack musculature. Temperature changes sebum viscosity, not pore aperture.Dermatol Surg (2016)
Chemical vs Physical SPFBoth types primarily absorb UV rays and convert to heat. "Physical" only scatters ~5%.Cole et al (2015)
Calculators

Stop Guessing.
Start Measuring.

SPF Dosage
Vitamin C pH
Retinoid Curve
TEWL Risk
Browse all 15 clinical tools →

The Clinical Digest

One email per month. Raw data from new device tests, formulation teardowns, and mathematical models for skin barrier optimization.

Ingredient Directory

Stop relying on marketing copy. Search our database of over 400 cosmetic ingredients, strictly categorized by molecular weight, optimal pH, chemical class, and peer-reviewed efficacy.

Search Database
[00:01] QUERY: Niacinamide
[00:01] class: Amide / Vitamin B3
[00:02] mw: 122.12 g/mol (Penetrates)
[00:02] optimal_ph: 5.0 - 7.0
[00:03] clinical_conc: 2% - 5%
[00:03] notes: Higher concentrations (>10%) increase irritation risk without proportional benefit.
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Frequently Audited Claims

Does collagen in skincare work? +

No. Topically applied collagen molecules are too large (~300,000 Daltons) to penetrate the epidermis. They act solely as a surface humectant, temporarily trapping moisture, but do not integrate with or stimulate your own dermal collagen.

Are chemical sunscreens endocrine disruptors? +

Current human clinical data does not support this claim. While some organic UV filters show weak estrogenic activity in isolated cell cultures (in vitro) or in animal models fed massive doses, the absorption rates through human skin are too low to cause systemic endocrine disruption.

Do I need a dedicated eye cream? +

Usually no. The skin around the eye is thinner, but it responds to the same active ingredients. Eye creams are typically just reformulated facial moisturizers—often with lower concentrations of actives and smaller, higher-priced packaging.

THE METHODOLOGY

We do not accept PR packages. We do not use affiliate links. We buy the hardware, map the spectrums, test the formulations, and publish the raw data.

Read Our Methodology